I probably won’t tamper with a rare, perfect, in-season peach. That peach will probably be eaten outside or over the sink. For all other peaches, I love this riff on peaches and cream. Roasting brings out the deep, caramel sweetness of the stone fruit, while a bit of aromatic bitters has enough subtle bite to keep that sweetness in check. A hefty spoonful of softly whipped cream — barely sweetened, and spiked with a little amari — is especially nice when the cream is cold and the peaches are still a little warm. Then again, I also love any chilled leftovers for a hot-weather porch snack the next day.